Saturday, March 16, 2024

What Could Go Wrong

 My last post showed how to cut your own floor planks with Cricut's wood veneer 12x12 wood sheets using Design Space (DS). Happily, I am able to report that the floor is finished and awaiting staining, which may happen tomorrow after I buy some stain. In the meantime here's how I created the floor.

I began by making a paper template of the floor because the flooring need to be notched to go around the the center peak wall that protrudes out beyond each side panel



Making templates of difficult spaces that will be covered seems to work best for me to get an accurate template to work with instead of messing with rulers and fractions be it wallpaper or flooring. This attic requires some fancy templates for  triangle peaked front, the triangular side walls, and the trapezoids on the front of the house on each side of the center peak.

I debated on whether to use heavier cardboard or scrapbooking paper. I really wanted to glue the flooring to Cricut's 1.5 mm chipboard as I did for the addition second floor which made a very nice, solid floor, but I didn't have any on hand, so I used thin craft paper. Since two 12x12 sheets were too wide, I overlapped the pieces instead of cutting on side down to fit, with the hopes of strengthening the joint between the two sheets and secured it with masking tape. 

I will order 1.5mm chipboard next week and glue the flooring to it so have that nice, solid flooring.



What Could Possibly Go Wrong?

1. GLUE:  I first tried Gorilla Wood glue, thinking that because it is not water based, the planks wouldn't curl, but the glue didn't seem to like the paper template or something. I just didn't like it, so I switched to the tacky glue, which worked much better. I even pondered later using double sticky tape since some manufactured flooring peal and use. I'm sure that tape would be as forgiving a glue in that you need to be able to slide the pieces around to get a tight, accurate fit and tape doesn't not allow that flexibility. 


2. NOT ENOUGH PLANKS:About 3/4 of the way through the job, I realized that I was running short of planks. I thought I had had plenty just by laying out the pre-cut sheets and then placing the individual planks in a test run. (Better photo of the trapezoid walls.)


12x12 sheets on the floor, forgetting the waste when cutting them out in Design Space because the cutting area was 10.5x11.5 inches, a loss of half an inch at the bottom and the 1/8 inch margin that DS allows to cut around the background and the 1.5 inches with the 10.5 inch width. 

And to complicate matters, the remaining sheets that I had were the really dark walnut and I would run out of the lighter shade. I decided to cut at least another half sheet of the darker walnut.

 

FIX: Now that you read about my failure to calculate accurately, you will be now be able to have a better estimate of how many 12x12 sheets you need for your project and it certainly does not hurt to have extras. For these really large spaces, I'd cut 2 1/2 12x12 sheets all at the same time to assure consistency in the color blends for each piece of wood does have its own character. You want flexibility to mix and match shades. Even each veneer sheet will its own color variations--that's what we love about natural wood--its unique character.


 If you have such a wide variation of shades as I did, cutting extras will make it easier to have a consistent variation in patterns and shades. I was prepared to cut an entire 3rd sheet or at least half a sheet, but I didn’t have to. I dug in my flooring stash and found some very light strips left over from the first floors that I made for the downstairs.




I also extended the planks beyond the edges of the template then trimmed them to fit from the back with scissors. They cut easily.

I cut the strips in with an X-acto blade, placing that edge at the end of the template so that I had straight edges lined up in the main flooring.


Once the glue had cured--a couple of hours--I sanded the floor using first 120 coarse grit sanding block then 220 softer grit. I let the fine sawdust fill any gaps.


I am very pleased with the final results. While it is work intensive to cut your own wood flooring, you have a unique, pretty floor--one of a kind. 


With the sanding finished, I I'll wipe the floor clean with mineral spirits, let it dry then apply the stain. I created a new test strip using Golden Pecan which is the bottom sample--the one that I originally wanted for all the flooring, but when I stained the first floor, I grabbed the wrong stain--Puritan Pecan, a lighter finish and not as rich as the Golden Pecan (top sample), so I'll use that lighter one to match all the floors--to some extent.  



Before the flooring can be installed, I need to do some electrical work. So check back next week to see my progress.


PS: Did you notice my new Mustang Coupe?  I am so exited to share it with you in the near future for this model has quite a legacy that makes it a perfect story to share during Women's History Month.

And Yes we survived the Colorado snow storm this week. In fact, our wet snow melted as it hit the ground and, so we didn't get the massive amounts that Denver and the mountain towns suffered as shown in national news. I liked one guy's advice when he battled nearly 3 ft. of snow--stay inside and let it snow. 

Have a great weekend. Thanks for stopping by.

Cheers, Ann

Friday, March 8, 2024

Using a Circuit Maker to create a Hardwood Floor



 Two main tasks remain to finish the Manchester Country Home Interior: Wallpaper and flooring. There are several ways to install dollhouse flooring ranging from nicely printed paper flooring--either purchased or home printed-- that looks beautiful and is easy to install and less expensive than wood flooring. Miniature building suppliers offer a plethora of flooring options specifically for miniatures building, sometimes costly and even tricky to install,  or DIY craft sticks (popsicle sticks and coffee stir sticks)

 

To remind you, as I wrote in back on December 6, 2022, I had 3 rules when I began this build, “Use from my stash before purchasing new; make as much as my talents and knowledge would allow (somewhat limited there); and purchase items that are handmade or come from what I perceive as a small business or a cottage business--a home based business." My self imposed rules have turned this house project In to a very long one.  



The 3rd floor will require at least 2 12x12 Cricut wood veneer sheets, since the Design Space cut will be 10.5 wide, just sort of the full 12 inches.




The first floor planks are the from the old San Franciscan kit. I ran short for the second floor bedroom, so I used the light colored wood to fill in, creating quite a unique floor.

  

For the first floor and the second floor addition,  I used the ¼ inch wide flooring that came with an old dollhouse kit, The San Franciscan that was actually a disaster. The wood planks came in 12-inch-long strips in a variety of shades to make an interesting floor. When It came time to make the flooring for the second floor, I didn’t have enough of the San Franciscan kit flooring for the bedroom, so I cut some strips to fill in using Cricut’s oak veneer wood, which was much lighter. See the results here: “When Progress Isn’t

 

Now I have created a complete tutorial to make an entire floor with the Design Place work sheet available in Cricut's Design Space. 

 

Supplies:

Circuit Machine that will cut wood (the Maker)

Circuit Deep Cut Blade (black)

Circuit Wood Veneer because it is specifically designed for their cutting system. Sometimes JoAnns, Michaels, and Hobby Lobby carry the product. (recommended). If you have Never cut wood, check out Jennifer Maker's tutorial on cutting Cricut's wood veneer. Click here

Purple Cutting Mat Strongest grip

Painter’s Tape

Heavy Card stock 100 lbs. (Michaels works best for me)

Tacky Glue or similar adhesive




Disclaimer: This tutorial is requires that you know some basic Cricut skills. If you do not know how to use the certain tools used here, then search YouTube for a quick lesson on how to accomplish the task that you want. We especially enjoy Jennifer Maker's Tutorials. 


Design Space Tools:

Align: Center

                           Arrange: Bring Forward or Send Back
                           Shapes: Score Line and Square

                           Attach

                           Group and Hide


To Increase size of screen images to easily read the image, on a Mac command +.


Follower these steps to cut planks for a  beautiful wood floor on your Cricut Maker:



1. Decide how wide you want to make your wood planks and how big a space you will cover with flooring. I am covering a  3rd story floor that requires two 12x12 inch sheets of Cricut wood veneer. Each package comes with two sheets. 


Before we begin, note that Cricut Design Space has pre-determined cut margins which means that it will not cut a 12.x2 wood sheet edge to edge on all 4 edges, so I will make my cutting area 10.5 wide which will require 20 lines created using the score line in Shapes. The lines will be 11.5 long from the top cutting line to the bottom cutting line. See the Make photo. 


2. In Shapes select the score line. The score lines will become solid once they are attached. For this project you need to Duplicate 20 lines. Size the first line: For this project it should be 1l.5 inches. You can select it and drag to length or select it and enter the length in the Size H tool. Now Duplicate 19 more. They will be staggered on the on the screen, so next you must line them up and position them.


3. The Tedious step: position the lines next to each other one at a time spaced  two work space squares apart to get a 1/4 inch wide plank, as demonstrated below the photo 1. Next select all the lines; use the Align tool at the top of the screen and select Align Top which will even the the top and lower margins. 


4. Select the lines and Attach them so that don't move around. 


5.  Photo 2: Create the cutting background. I colored mine brown to simulate the wood sheet. In Shapes select the Square and size it to 10.x 11. 5 inches.  You will drag it over the lines and will have to Send it Back to position it behind the plank lines. Last, select the image and use the Attach tool to join the two layers. Now you are ready to cut your planks




This photo shows that the tutorial as you will see it in DS. The instructions are grouped so the you click in the right panel the layer (green selection)  to hid it and just have flooring image to print. OR you can now copy an image and paste it into a new Design Space, which you can practice with tutorial.


Note: Before you click MAKE, hide all the images that you don't want to show up in the MAKE screen. I have grouped all those images together, so before you cut the image, hide the group by clicking on the hide button. 


Photo 2 shows the finished imaged ready to make, with the instructions grouped and hidden, using the layers panel.


 

This is the cutting screen. As you can see, I forgot to hide an image on the white screen. 

 You will note that the cutting image does not fill the 12x12 mat and there will be some waste  because of the way Cricut is designed. I found that attaching the planks to a background allows for a cut from top to bottom because the machine will first cut the square then the lines; otherwise it will not cut clear to the bottom of the wood, only to the bottom of the line. If you want a longer cut to full a 12 inches then use 24" mat. The machine will first cut the  brown background border around the lines then it will cut the planks.

Ready to Cut

 

I always cut my new patterns out on card stock first to make sure my design works, which I recommend you do the same. You don't have cut the entire page; just enough to make sure that your design is what you want.


Adhere wood veneer to the strong grip purple mat; use the brayer to create a tight fit; and secure in place with painter's tape around the edges. While the tape will hold the wood securely in place, since the planks will be cut from top to bottom, the tape will no longer secure the wood in place. You'll see. 




When you are creating a project for the first time, you make mistakes. For me, I misjudged the direction I want the grain to run. This image shows the cut going across the grain, but I needed it go with the grain, so I stopped the cut and realized that my cuts were not going to the bottom of the border, so I stopped the machine half way through the cut and started over with a new sheet of veneer. I always buy extra--just incase. 


A craft knife easily cuts through the veneer should you have this problem. To avoid this miscalculation, you will see that that lines won't go clear to the bottom in the Make It screen so that is the time to cancel the cut and make the adjustment by simply decreasing decreasing the size of the background layer. (In this tutorial, the brown layer.)

And here they are. Nicely cute wood planks for a lovely floor. 


I laid out the first bundle, as you can see the lighter colored ones and then cut another sheet of veneer which is darker--and that is okay because when I glue them to the floor template they will be mixed, giving the floor a natural look. 


The final step will be to glue the planks to a thin cardboard template. 

You will find this tutorial along with the Design Space image that you will be able to use. I do suggest that you Duplicate the actually cutting image and hid it in the layers panel if you want to modify it so that you don't destroy the original.  


You will find this tutorial in my Design Space public library. Making Miniatures with Cricuts, Laser Cutters, and 3D Printers and Dollhouse Miniatures and DIY
Thanks for stopping by. I hope find this tutorial useful. 

Have a great weekend, Ann

Monday, February 5, 2024

Close to the Finish Line

 

Note:[To increase the font size or screen size: Mac: Command +. Windows: Start>System>Display] 

From the beginning this simple farmhouse style 3 story house caused me problems because I decided to do what some call "kit bashing," which I really am not very good at. I wanted a larger house, so because this house resembled a Real Good Toys Vermont farmhouse, I bought one of the company's sweet additions to add two more rooms, assuming it would be a perfect fit. I decided, too, that the addition's roof should have a sky light. I fumbled my way through, struggling because the addition really didn't attach as seamlessly as it would have to one of Real Good Toys current kits.


 

Still I preserved and herd she is in the final stages of completion. 


With the main roof shingled, the addition had only one challenge, shingling around the sky light. 
I began by placing a wood strip along the end as a foundation for the first row of speed shingles so that that roof itself would not show through.



The strip shingles went into place quickly.


Looks like a mess, but I used full strips because it was easier to match the off-set, so there was more waste than what I liked; however, I save the end pieces to use  the rows. 


I had to order more speed shingles from Greenleaf, so I also ordered single shingles, which I used for the row that framed the bottom of the window. 


In some cases the the variation in color might be an issue depending how the shingles are to colored. I will paint the roof gray, so I don't think the darker shades will matter that much.


I made the skylight so that the window pane piece could be easily removed and replaced. 



 I used white water base enamel interior paint with primer, so it goes on smoothly and easily.


I ordered the trim from an Etsy shop, Miniature Crush. Other online stores used to carry a wider selection of wood trims, but they seem be harder to find; fortunately, there are Esty vendors who carry good selections of speciality wood trims.


The roof molding is painted, too. I will install the decorative trim after the shingles are painted.







All in all, I'm quite pleased with the way the shingles turned turn out, tedious as the chore is.

I used my paper trimmer to trim the both the speed shingles and the single ones, using my a paper cutter, which will probably dull the blade. Oh well.



I attached the single shingles directly to a row of speed shingles before installing them on the roof. It just seemed easier to line them up.




 I lined the up each, anchoring with painter's tape.

The using my favorite double stick tap, I taped them in place instead of using hot glue to reduce the bulk that a bead of hot glue can create. 


The red protective cover peels off easily.


So there you have it. Final step: paint the roof. Maybe tomorrow. Maybe not. 


Were I thinking, I should have just trimmed back the speed shingles instead of singles ones. 😐

In my last post, Jodi wondered if I might cut my shingles on my Cricut Maker. Interesting that you should ask, because I did try to design my own as I waited for the Greenleaf deliver. I would use Cricut's very thin veneer which comes in 3 woods: Oak, Maple, and dark Walnut. I do have a large stash of shingles, which I really would like to use up, but probably won't. 
 
Final major project: flooring for the 3rd floor. I purchased Cricut's veneer Walnut that I'lll cut the planks on the Cricut Maker. In another couple of weeks, the Manchester Country Home should be completed.


I am thankful that you stopped by. Have a great week.

Fondly,
Ann

Sunday, January 21, 2024

Roofing: Project Nears Completion

According to last week's weather reports, most of the mid-section of the USA and the eastern seaboard suffered unusually cold and snow. Here in Northern Colorado, we were cold, too, and received less than two inches of snow, which by the way lingers. I'm not an outdoor winter person anymore, so I retreated to my basement workshop last week with one goal in mind: roof the Manchester Country Home! 


 

If you have followed the saga of this miserable roof project,  you know the challenges that I've had. The mish-mash of guide lines tells the sad story of my inability to get the roof right. My first attempt on the left shows my failed faux metal roof look. I just didn't like the looks and then I tried the shake shingle look and had a lot of trouble getting them straight and removed them. 

 


So now with a clean slate, I ordered speed shingles for Greenleaf Dollhouse supplies. I've used the before on the Bellingham Texas Farmhouse, so I thought they would be a good alternative. 



I began by making templates of each roof section to assure a more accurate cut of the angles on the roof, taping each row in place with masking tape. The shingles line up off set with the above row barreling covering the slit in the bottom row. 


The shingles line up fast and neat.


Next, I trim off the inside edge that butt up against the peaked roof. I trim the straight edge slightly and will finish trimming once the shingles are permanently placed.

  


Now I attach each row one at a time with tape, lift the shingle, and run a bead of hot glue then press the shingle in place and remove the tape and add the next row.


  

Wow. The first elevation is finished--well almost. I had already added the roof moulding so I will have to creatively finish the top edges. Ideally, the speed shingles will be place all the way to the peak of the roof and trimmed to fit then covered with trim, but my roof moulding is already in place, as well as some of the edge trimming. 



Now the right elevation has shingles in place on the template.


The shingles line up so easily with out having to mark lines. That was one of my problems--I could never get the lines straight. 


Another finished roof.
Felling pretty good now. I can do this!


I am quite pleased with the work because cutting the angled ends and getting each strip of shingles correctly place does required concentration.


The front pitched elevations are particularly troublesome, but I followed my plan: place on the template, trim the inside seam and then the out side edge after the shingles are in place.


  
My worst fear: an offset lineup. I will share with you next time how I fix this problem. Once again, don't add any roof trim until after the shingles are in place. The same holds true for the trim work on the edge of the roofs. It's much easier to get a clean line when you trim the shingles to size before the decorative trim has been added. 



This side lined up much better.


To finish the roof with the moulding already place, I will cut down the shingle strip


And add some gingerbread to give a finished look.


Once all the shingles are in place,  I have to decide how to finish them: stain? or paint? I've had in mind all along that this house house will have a gray roof.



So there you have it. For the most part the Manchester has a roof--except for the wretched addition.


This roof should be easy. Ha. I had to try my hand at kit bashing and added a sky light window. 


I'll have to do some fancy trimming to get the shingles placed properly.


I do have a template, but I'm going to add each shingle one layer at a time, trimming as I go.🤞


So. There you have it. The back side still needs shingles, but I had to order another package and I'll have enough to do the garage. In total I purchased 4 packs of shingles at about $15 each--but then I don't have buy a ski-pass, so I'm good. 

Thanks for joining me. 

Have a fine week. 

Fondly, Ann


Purchase your speed shingles here: Greenleaf Dollhouse Dollhouses



 

What Could Go Wrong

 My last post showed how to cut your own floor planks with Cricut's wood veneer 12x12 wood sheets using Design Space (DS). Happily, I am...