Make Something Pretty

 After a little time away from the workshop, I returned to the basement determined to begin wallpapering the Manchester, but things never go as planned, do they? 

Before I could wallpaper, I decided that I needed to refit and resize my window frames. My dear, sweet husband had noted that my frames were too large for the windows to give a proper fit, so I had to resize 5 window frames. That's when I began yesterday. 

This is the large window for the addition living room. When first made the frame, I cut one side off for some reason then glued it back together to save wood, reasoning the both paint and the window curtain would cover up the mistake. But the more I fiddled with the frame trying to get it to line up with the window, I discovered that it was crooked, so I disassembled it and rebuilt it to the correct and even size.

Of course our main rule when cutting anything from lumber to wallpaper is to measure twice, cut once, but as I read Studio Miniatures this morning, Elizabeth put that rule more accurately Take multiple measurements and still cut it wrong. ME!

Using a jig helps glue straight corners. Most often the corner fits inside the jig, but I used a small square of wood inside the frame to get an accurate fit. It worked great helping to get straight lines.

And so I repeated the process with each assembled window frame: disassemble the frame, cut to size, re-glue.

 I repainted the frames with a light coat of white craft acrylic paint then sanded them down to give a bit of a vintage or aged look to wood work.

Wallpapering

I have followed the same process for wallpapering with each house that I have built:

• I always use either "Yes" or Grandmother Stover's dollhouse wallpaper paste for these specific reasons: both are of the same consistency and spread nicely. I use Grandmother's because it is readily available at Hobby Lobby, while I have to order "Yes." The glue doesn't  not set up quickly so you have time work with it; it's slippery so it slides into place and can easily be repositioned; and, most importantly, it can be removed easily by saturating the wallpaper with warm water.
• Once my paper is cut to size for the wall, I place a layer of wax paper or this Press'n Seal kitchen paper on the work surface, Wax paper has to be taped in place, but Press'n Seal holds itself in place. I use a new sheet for each application to prevent glue from previous piece getting on the front side of the wallpaper.
• I use a wide craft stick as an applicator.
• When I apply the wallpaper to the wall, I use either an old credit card or my Cricut scraper to work out the air bubbles and wrinkles in the wallpaper.
• I also keep a damp cloth or paper towel to clean my fingers or even to wipe excess glue away.
• Note: too much glue will seep out the edges when you use the credit card to Smoot out wrinkles, so once you apply the glue to the back side of the wallpaper, use the edge of your applicator to wipe away excess, leaving a thin layer of glue.

I paper the back wall (front of the house) first, cutting the paper 1/4 inch to 1/2 an inch wider at each side to wrap around the corner. I use the credit card to poke the paper tightly into the corner. As this photo shows, I pre-crease the sides so that they fit into place.

Now I'm ready to slather on the goo: 

The wall doesn't need much prep. Just clean and dry.

Note: Some apply glue to the wall. I just found that awkward in the room. Please don't use hot glue. There are all kinds of adhesives; use what works best for you.

You can see how the paper wrapped around the corner will make a smooth joint for the side walls. The side wall paper will then just slide into place, making a clean corner seam. This technique is especially helpful for those kit walls fit together with taps, leaving gaps in the corners. Wrapping the wallpaper around the coroners in those older kits makes a very nice, clean seam over the gapping corners. 

I printed this William Morris paper from rawpixel.com on mat photographic paper, a heavier paper then I protected it with Kryon sealer. It's awful stuff. I use it in the garage with the garage open and my Covid mask on! But it will protect the paper from fading and discoloration.

I discovered that printing on 8.5 x 11 inch paper on my home printer doesn't give paper wide enough for a 12 inch wall. I centered this paper carefully so that my crown molding on the top and the floor board on the bottom would cover the edges, so you have to choose a pattern that will cover the wall the way you want it to. I printed and reprinted on on computer paper until I had it all lined up for a good fit.

I let the paper glue cure over night then this morning installed the crown molding on the left side. I'll do the right wall after I've added papered it. 

Cutting mitered corners for this crown molding is so tricky and I ruined so much lumber trying to get good mitered cuts, so I'm using these corner blocks that allow me to cut straight cuts. So easy. You can find these 1/4 inc wood blocks at Hobby Lobby, eBay, or other miniature sources.

With two walls in the living room papered and the wood trim that has been painted white then distressed with light sanding, I was ready to paper the left wall with wide opening, but I realized that I couldn't paper it yet because I needed to add sconces to both the living room and dining room on that wall. I'll use sconces from my stash in the living room and hand created sconces for the dining room. The living room will not have a ceiling lighting, but the dinning room will have a handmade crystal chandelier made from a kit that I purchased supplies from a wonderful Dutch company, Bindles Ornaments, I dug in that stash for parts for the dining room sconces. Here is the parts list for these easy to make sconces: 

• Glass globes: I got lucky one day at Hobby Lobby when I found this box of glass globes with earring backs. I didn't think I needed a dozen, but then maybe I do. These glass globes can be sourced on Etsy. 
• The lighting is a bit more complicated. Because I ordered from a kit that Bindles offered, it called for the these bulbs and sockets.
• the sockets come in two sizes. Use the smaller one for wall sconces and the larger ones for chandeliers: 
• Sockets: https://cir-kitconcepts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_42&products_id=181
• bulbs: Bulbs: https://cir-kitconcepts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=13_42&products_id=177
• There are a variety of bulbs both 12 volt and LED that you can use; these sockets might be a bit intimidating, but if I can assemble them, so can you. I used these because that's what the Bindles kit used.
• To learn how to assemble your own sconces, visit the Bindles website to watch their tutorials. I ordered kits to learn how to make my own lights. Cir-kt will have all the supplies you need, but there are other sources, as well. Use what works for you and what is assessable. 
• I use this jewelry glue for beads and glass; other glues will fog the glass. This is not a fast drying glue, so glue your pieces and let them set for a while before going on to the next step.
• The little cups for the candle socket to fit in FL 451: there are two sizes; choose the smallest for this project https://bindelsornaments.nl/product/fl-451/
• Sconce base, FL 434: https://bindelsornaments.nl/product/fl-434/

Be sure to test you bulb once you have it assembled to make sure that it works.

Now, you are ready to assemble your lights by threading the electrical wire from the front to the back of the sconce.

The fun part of using supplies from Bindles to build your dollhouse lights is variety of parts and supplies for making miniatures things. You can create your own beautiful lights that are unique and beautiful and quite affordable. You may need some simple jeweler's tools and some YouTube tutorials to get you started. 

These tweezer clamps are a good way to hold these tiny pieces.

 

The first bulb is the earring globe; the second on is a replacement globe that orders from Jeepers Miniatures, but I can't find them there now. It's just a bit smaller and perhaps more to scale than the earring part. 

When I assembled these, I place the brass socket holder on a toothpick, use another tooth pick to dab glue on it then place it in the center of the base and set aside to let it dry. 

When the glue sets, I thread the wire for the light through the opening from the front to the back of the sconce base. I don't glue it in place because I don't want the glue to corrode the bulb's plastic coating and ruin it. 

I use a toothpick next to dab the edge of the opening of the glass globe and put it over the bulb. This glue does not grab quickly, so carefully set in the work top to set up.

So there you have it. Two projects for today, plus a blog post. Not a bad day's work. 

What did you accomplish today?

Thanks for visiting. Now you go make something pretty.